LUG NUTS SOLD SEPARATELY HERE
14mm STUD OPTION AVAILABLE WITH HEAVY DUTY GT4 REAR HUBS. Please inquire if interested. 
Check out our new broken stud gallery here
 
 
Weighing in well above 3000lbs and being propelled by the glorious and powerful S65 engine, there isn't a BMW chassis that benefits more from installing Core4's Ultimate Press-In Stud Conversion Hubs. The advantages are clear and one doesn't need to look further than the fact that every OEM who supplies hubs with studs from the factory use press-in studs.
 
"WHAT DO I GET?"
 
Your choice of a complete set, fronts only, or rears only of new O.E. supplier FAG brand BMW front and BMW Genuine OEM rear hubs professionally modified on a CNC machine to allow the use of super high-strength (beyond grade 12.9, 185,000+ psi ultimate tensile strength) press-in ARP or proprietary Core4/MSI wheel studs. Hubs come pre-installed with ARP or MSI studs.
 
Don't want to spend money on brand new hubs? CLICK HERE TO SEND YOUR OWN WHEEL HUBS IN TO HAVE STUDS INSTALLED!
 
These aren't just simply drilled. They are machined exactly the same as OEM hubs that come from the factory with press-in studs. The holes are precision machined and inspected, and the backside of the hubs are machined flat to allow the head of the studs to sit correctly without any stress risers from poor perpendicularity with the hub face.
 
It is perfect timing to simply install these on your vehicle during a bearing service and worry much less about your studs breaking whether for a dual duty track car or full blown race car. Hubs come with studs long enough to use a 12mm wheel spacer OR you can opt for a longer stud which will allow the use of a wheel spacer up to 20mm thick.
 
 
"WHO IS THIS MEANT FOR?"
 
Anyone who wants a endurance racing tested, reliable method of fastening wheels to their car, and keeping them there....literally. Extra peace of mind, less money spent on replacing studs out of paranoia, and a proven track record applies to every BMW enthusiast, whether drifting, tracking, or full blown racing. If it's good for endurance racing, it's good for ALL racing (and street!).
 
"WHY WOULD I WANT PRESS-IN STUDS ON MY BMW ANYWAY?"
 
This is a solution to a documented problem in a series that our race team competes in called American Endurance Racing ("AER" www.americanenduranceracing.com), where there's upwards of 25 hours of racing per weekend. That's approximately 15-20 HPDE/track-day's worth of track time in a span of three days. Several teams who have had consistent issues and multiple instances with breaking thread-in studs, and sometimes losing wheels on track (see videos in gallery), have had zero issues to date since switching over to press-in style studs.
 
This is based on the AER database which has cars with multiple 1000's of laps in the last 2-3 years. The only cars that have had failures (and lost wheels) are BMW cars with 12mm size thread-in studs. There hasn't been a single report of a press-in stud failure from cars that come that way from the factory (Mustang, Corvette, Nissan, Honda, etc.) or BMW's that have already been modified to this style utilizing ARP press-in studs that race in AER.
 
Because of the frequency of thread-in stud failures, many BMW owners have been led to believe that it is necessary to service wheel studs at an abnormal rate. Some recommendations as low as 10 hours of track time. STUDS SHOULD NOT NEED TO BE SERVICED BEFORE WHEEL BEARINGS ON A TRACK CAR . The only instance where this may be the case is when the studs are subjected to repeated time sensitive pit-stops with heavy impact equipment. Simple as that. A dual duty track/street car should be able to run the same high quality, high strength ARP or MSI wheel studs for years without worry or up until wheel bearings are serviced.
 
M12 sized fasteners in a thread-in configuration are marginal for the application and more susceptible to failure due to large stress risers at the thread root and shoulder where they install into the hub. Press-in ARP and MSI studs have large un-threaded shanks that have 44% larger cross-sectional area than thread-in studs (more area = more strength) coming out of the hub from the backside making them much more robust and fatigue resistant without stress concentrations at points of peak stress. Their tolerance to bending and shear loading from race cars generating tons of grip and instances beyond control like loss of pre-load (anything from installation error to plastic deformation of the aluminum wheel at the lug nut interface), debris caught in between wheel and hub, poorly constructed or out of tolerance wheels, is much better than a thread-in.
 
"BUT, THREAD-IN STUDS ARE EASY TO CHANGE IF THEY BREAK..."
 
The only people who make this argument are BMW people who run 12mm thread-in studs. Why? Because they are the only people who break studs at an abnormal rate!
Press-in studs CAN easily be serviced on the front of E36 M3/E46 and front and rear on E36 non-M. The front of the car requires the removal of the dust-shield and the rear of the car the e-brake must be removed and the back plate notched a bit for clearance. Remember, you will most likely need to change your wheel bearings before the need to change studs.
 
"WHAT IF I NEED TO CHANGE BEARINGS?"
 
We offer individual front hub assemblies with just machining done or pre-installed with studs, whether for regular maintenance, spares, or precautionary measures.
 
"I JUST ORDERED WHEEL HUBS AND NOW IT'S TOO LATE TO GET THIS DONE!..."
 
STOP RIGHT THERE and click here for our send-in-your-own-hub service.